Ann Demeulemeester

Model wearing feather top and black pants

In her creations, Ann Demeulemeester incorporated the tension between strength and vulnerability that every person has within themselves. The idea of the feather, which regularly recurs in her work, symbolizes that sensitivity. In the Birds of Paradise exhibition in 2014, MoMu included a number of her iconic feather silhouettes and over the years has highlighted several aspects of Ann Demeulemeester’s signature.

Mannequin wearing black and red outfit
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 1996-97
MoMu Collection inv. 1408, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in black outfit with exposed back
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 1996
MoMu Collection inv. X1409, Photo: Stany Dederen
Ann Demeulemeester invitation with black bird print
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 1988-89 invitation
MoMu Collection inv. T18/510, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in beige outfit with long leather coat
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
MoMu Collection inv. X1524, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin with feathery headpiece, blue outfit and black knee boots
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 2012-13
MoMu Collection inv. X1521, Photo: Stany Dederen
White invitation Ann Demeulemeester, printed on handkerchief
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 2009-10 invitation
MoMu Collection inv. T18/510, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in white lace outfit covered with pearls
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 2007
MoMu Collection inv. X106, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in red costume
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 2013
MoMu Collection inv. X187, Photo: Stany Dederen

Ann Demeulemeester graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1981. In 1985, together with her photographer husband Patrick Robyn, she established her own fashion label. Her designs are meticulously thought through in terms of tailoring, yet evoke simplicity. Asymmetrical lines and flowing fabrics awaken illusions of motion. Demeulemeester plays with gravity through the use of drapery and contrasts the dynamic of ribbons and belts with closely fitted jackets. This penchant for contrast also translates into her black-and-white colour palette and the combination of delicate and more raw materials.

MASTERFUL LEATHER

Mannequin with black feather headdress, white gown and black leather corset
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 2009-10
MoMu Collection inv. X96, Photo: Stany Dederen

CORSET BELT

In her 2009-10 Autumn-Winter collection, the power of black seems to protect the fragility of white. This intention is self-evident in the combination of a flowing, draped white shirt dress with a rigid black corset. Thanks to attached belts at the top and free-hanging belts at the bottom, a contrast in volume is created.

Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 2009-10
MoMu Collection inv. X96, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in black leather dress
Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
MoMu Collection inv. X103, Photo: Stany Dederen

Leather demands true tailoring mastery. Demeulemeester used the material for the first time in 1993, following an initiation from her brother, who worked with sheepskin and introduced her to a range of textures in leather. Among other things, she draped it into supple dresses (Autumn-Winter 1999-2000) and used it to construct rigid corsets (Autumn-Winter 2009-10). Variations in riding boots, leggings and gloves in leather have been consistent factors throughout her collections.

POETIC INSPIRATIONS

Ann Demeulemeester is inspired by the energy of wide-ranging artistic creations, from the music of Bob Dylan and the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud to the visual art of Marcel Duchamp, and she carried the sensations they evoke through to her own creative process.

Patti Smith in a black outfit by Ann Demeulemeester on the catwalk
Patti Smith in an Ann Demeulemeester Autumn-Winter 2006-07 silhouette on the catwalk
Photo: Dan & Corina Lecca

Music, and particularly the raw poetry of Patti Smith and PJ Harvey, is an important source of inspiration for Ann Demeulemeester. This shared creative language is expressed in both professional collaborations and friendship. During the presentation of the Autumn-Winter 2006-07 collection, Patti Smith was in Paris and made an appearance on the catwalk.

Mannequin in apron with ribbons and crow's beak print
Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
MoMu Collection inv. X85, X90, X331 & X89, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail from side apron with ribbons and crow's beak print
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X85, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail of front with top and pants in cotton and unbound apron
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X90, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail back of apron printed with white chalk lettering
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X90, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail of front top and pants in cotton and unfastened apron with bird head print
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X331, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail of back apron with ribbons and bird head print
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X331, Photo: Stany Dederen
  • Detail from front of apron showing ribbons and printed inscription "Hearts Way Moves/Your Long Tears"
    Ann Demeulemeester in collaboration with Jim Dine, Spring-Summer 2000
    MoMu Collection inv. X89, Photo: Stany Dederen

The work of the American artist Jim Dine touched her so deeply that she used it directly in her Spring-Summer 2000 collection. “I saw his work in a gallery and it gave me a knot in my stomach… I wanted to translate this emotional impact into my work, so I sent him a letter. Two weeks later, he came to Antwerp. Our collaboration resulted in a series of photographic prints on fabric. The idea was to create a way to actually wear these photo’s. The rectangular fabric prints were draped and combined in different ways. These fluid pictures are worn on the body with a special system of ribbons."

SYMBOLIC ACCESSORIES

Detail of mannequin with sequinned top, black pants and wide belt
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 1991
MoMu Collection inv. X1412, Photo: Stany Dederen
Detail of necklace with black pocketing
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 2009
MoMu Collection inv. T11/257, Photo: Stany Dederen
Detail of wooden beam necklace with leather bean-shaped pendant
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 2009
MoMu Collection T11/253, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in a top made of light beige sequins with black pants and a wide belt
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 1992
MoMu Collection inv. X1410, Photo: Stany Dederen
Detail of black leather necklace paired with pearl necklace and skull shaped pendant
Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer 2007
MoMu Collection inv. X11/245, Photo: Stany Dederen

Ann Demeulemeester regularly completed her silhouettes with meaningful neck jewellery that also serve as talismans. The poetic effect is reinforced by such organic materials as leather, feathers and mother-of-pearl.

SUCCESSOR: SÉBASTIEN MEUNIER (2013-2020)

Mannequin wearing black scarf over the head, a leather top and a pair of black pants
Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester, Autumn-Winter 2018-19
MoMu Collection inv. X183, Photo: Stany Dederen
Mannequin in white hat and transparent veil, wearing white blouse, black pants and black leather sandals
Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester, Spring-Summer
MoMu Collection inv. X182, Photo: Stany Dederen

In 2013, Ann Demeulemeester stepped down from her label, selecting Sébastien Meunier to continue her signature with a sober use of colour, layered silhouettes and poetic sources of inspiration. In 2020, the house was purchased by Claudio Antonioli, owner of the eponymous multi-brand fashion store in Milan.

Author: Romy Cockx
Photo above: Marleen Daniëls